A review of 2015 pre-fall collections by the world’s leading fashion brands is far from being a mere echo of the last season but hints at what could be trendy in the next
It was roses and frills all the way in Blumarine’s collections, tiptoed in kitten heels on the runway for an elite touch. Is it little wonder then, that the brand’s hyper-feminine, ultra sweet look has a famous fan in burlesque performer, Dita Von Teese? But just as we thought that the label was in danger of turning too saccharine-sweet, it seems to have thankfully up-righted itself just in time and in fact evolved into one offering designs with a cleaner neater look.
So those famous roses have now turned geometric for a right element of drama shall we say, as in a body-con dress with a polo neck and an eye-catching, lavish bejeweled spread of gold and multi-coloured embroidery all over. It’s true. To grow, one needs to evolve. So do take notes.
Talented Sarah Burton’s collection for Alexander McQueen captured all the romance and beauty of a dying autumn as seen in delicate tulle dresses (to indicate the transitory nature of the season) and featuring delicate blooms all over. A 40’s silhouette with nipped waist (peplum-style) matched by a short, flared skirt in delicate fabric particularly caught our eye. Exuding military veneer, it featured a high neck designed to keep you warm and snug as you cruise along the Pacific binoculars in hand, trying to spot whales or dolphins.
In Alberta Ferretti’s collection, the classic safari-style got a nice update further elaborated in highly romantic black evening looks and day-wear denim creations receiving the laser-cut treatment and embroidered in eyelet patterns. Dipped in a largely neutral palette and flaunting a more direct as against mysterious appeal, critics viewed the creations as suited for pursuits of a more urban trend rather than vacation.
Vividly printed maxi dresses and tops (with bell sleeves and matched by those famous 70’s ‘bell-botts’) had a hippie vibe to them as can be seen in the featured pieces. Ankle-length dresses in a ‘flowey’ fabric (with long cupped sleeves) are designed to billow attractively in the breeze as you saunter along the deck in a pair of strapped sandals. For eveningwear though, Ferretti presents an oh-so-desirable, willow-o-the-wisp concoction in blue.
Raf Simmon’s collection for Christian Dior paid grand tribute to the power of sleeves. That’s right, sleeves. Those appendages to a garment can deconstruct the look of a garment and instantly elevate or lower its overall appeal (not to forget, the wearer’s too). Apparently, after the austerity of the manmade disaster that was WW II, Dior was inspired by all things excess. Recalling that period in the brand’s history, Simmons planted large forbidden fruit on the catwalk. The collection was defined by a look recalling the term ‘through the looking glass’ and together with a purple (!) grass carpet and a set blending a touch of three venues – church, garden and an Ibiza night club.
So sleeves narrowed at the shoulders and puffed at the elbows or wrists in various volumes of artistic license and parlance that boggles one’s mind. And we’ve done our duty by selecting one creation for you with a metallic glint to it that’s unmistakably discotheque. The contrast between heavy outerwear and the lightest of light dresses, symbolized the weight of temptation. So if there’s a message to this collection, it’s got to be this…‘Get armed to the hilt’ the non-violent way and fashionably too.
The beautiful bloom, Bird of paradise is the perfect source of inspiration for Fendi’s collection. Its architectural essence was interpreted in exciting new ways such as strikingly attractive prints, graphics and embroidery on dresses and coats, presenting wearable pieces of art. Angular, sharp and eye-catching, you’re sure to make them your must-have pieces this season. One white spaghetti-strapped dress simply stole the show with pleats that fell away languorously right from the neckline and was ‘decked’ all over with the arresting motif of the bloom.
And of course, the magician behind it all was Lagerfeld again, who has been at it for the past half century and mastered his craft.
Flashing with newness, popping with color and tamed with practicality, Peter Dundas presents a modern urban wardrobe for the Emilio Pucci girl from a collection rooted in contrasts. Extreme lengths – either very, very long or very, very short- set the new, definitive mood. Color flares up and extinguishes just as fast. Oversized sporty pieces create mammoth-like structure while diaphanous dresses are as light as a feather radiating freshness and ease.
Pattern, a Pucci signature, comes out to play in new ways. Flaming thunderbolts, plucked straight from David Bowie, zig zag their way across suede patchwork or silk crepe long sleeve dresses. Swirling prints are newly configured on dresses with sexy stitched-up lace seams or wave-like hems trimmed in colored lace. Stripes, shot with lurex, are thrown in freely on knits or decadent paillette-crusted dresses and suiting.
Tailored separates, freely mixed and matched, are the core of this collection’s effortless vibe. Getting dressed is no hassle thanks to the perfect straight leg pant, cozy knit sweater, the tube dress, velvet shorts and a sharp shouldered jacket. The ankle-grazing skirt, slim through the hips, is a key new silhouette paired with a slim turtleneck or a cropped mink peacoat in bold black and white stripes.
Outerwear makes a statement. Oversized, structured coats add a contrasting layer to light, baby-doll lace dresses. A curly lambswool coat is a wool pile of pink, a structured bubblegum pink wool coat is trimmed with a beaver collar.
By day, the fabrics are unfussy, yet impeccably crafted. Supple, heavy-duty wools mix with richly colored suedes, cotton knits and silks. At night, the drama rises. Jet black embroidery creates a crunchy, 3-D canvas of beads and crystals on a short evening dress. A new paillette technique, using microscopic sequins, carpets dresses, leggings and striped suiting in a sleek, all-over sheen. Over the knee boots act like leggings, allowing for a sexy flash of skin. The bootie, meanwhile, adds a rock n’ roll edge to long, ankle grazing or short dresses.