The latest Musk trilogy from Bvlgari Perfumes is referred to as a quest of new olfactive fields and is section of Bulgari’s Le Gemme collection. A haute parfumerie range stimulated by the world of haute joaillerie. Designs so far include the ranges of the original Le Gemme (2014); Le Gemme Imperiali (2016); Le Gemme Orientali (2016); Le Gemme Reali (2018); and Le Gemme Masculine (2016) ranges.
The Musk trilogy is described as an exploration of new olfactive territories created by Master Perfumer Jacques Cavalier.
“Musk has always fascinated me. It is like the dawning of the day,” said Cavalier. “It shines light on the other ingredients. It’s a scent trail that creates real character without being disruptive. It is a real signature.”
The trilogy is part of Bulgari’s Le Gemme collection, a haute parfumerie range inspired by the world of haute joaillerie. Expressions to date include Le Gemme; Le Gemme Reali; Le Gemme Imperiali; Le Gemme Orientali; and Le Gemme Masculine Collection.
The first in the trilogy, Opalon, was inspired by the Australian white opal, a stone known for its symbol of purity, wisdom and fortune.
"Opalon is the most Italian fragrance within this collection,” Cavallier says. “It conjures the fundamental light of a summer morning in Rome."
Called Yasep after its Persian name yašp, the second fragrance is inspired by the blood-red jasper, a vibrant stone associated to physical strength, stamina and endurance.
“We take the beauty of nature, put it in a bottle, and offer it to our clients. Yasep’s personality is very noble and distinctive; it transports you to another world,” says Cavallier.
Finally, Falkar draws its power from the majestic falcon. It channels the opulence of the Middle East, and is a sensual expression of masculinity with notes of leather, wood and incense.
“A dream of the Middle East, a new expression of masculine sensuality,” Cavallier says of his third creation. “A torrid sensation, a lighter depth dressed with saffron, musks, and oud."
For the Master Perfumer, the different musks are colours to be used on a blank canvas. And the result is aromatic art.
“They are often used as a sort of background to set a tone that is then punctuated by other notes,” Cavallier concludes. “They help reveal the beauty of other ingredients. It’s like in a painting, to see the colours you need a background. For perfumes it is the same.”