Inimitable Pasquale Bruni

One of Italy’s most acclaimed fine jewellery designers, Pasquale Bruni established his eponymous brand way back in 1997 presenting stunningly and breathtakingly beautiful collections. Today it is a family-run company, whereby his daughter, Eugenia, runs the creative department—having inherited her father’s artistic sensitivity and romantic sensibility, and his son, Alessandro, serves as managing director. The trio have successfully transformed it into an internationally well know brand, represented in the Middle East by renowned retailer Damas. Recently, Pasquale Bruni visited Dubai to launch some exclusive pieces from his new collections, when Aviamost spoke to him

It’s very nice to meet you.

My pleasure, thanks to you and to Damas our partner and distributor.

Please tell me something about your latest Baselworld 2014 collections and the inspiration behind them.

The Atelier High jewellery collection is one of our latest and I have come to present some exclusive pieces at Damas and the GCC market. We have new pieces in the Mandala and also our popular Bon Ton collections. These are just some of the newer items in a collection with soul, of jewels containing elements that epitomize nature, creation, and especially love.

What inspires your creations?

It starts with the selection of the stone and is followed by the shape around the stone. So it’s an incredible study. Each creation has got a classical vibe and each is a living jewel which is very vivid. A Pasquale Bruni jewel is forever. You never buy it for just one occasion. It’s more than the, selection of diamonds, gemstones and the grams of gold it is made up of.

Your daughter Eugenia Bruni is a talented designer in her own right. Do you collaborate on designing your collections?

Mandala is one of her collections. But there is no strict margin for any collection as each is a collaboration. She is very contemporary while Pasquale Bruni is technical. And together they can create beautiful pieces. For instance in the Girlanda collection, he studied the concept and she interpreted it, added the colours, adapts it etc.

Which is your highest selling collection and why?

Bon Ton is our best selling collection because of the unique art of the stones. It’s our most unique line and is patented too. So it’s recognized as being Pasquale Bruni’s signature collection. It’s a collection which bears tribute to the fascinating elegance of Clori, the goddess of flowers, who with the onset of spring becomes a nymph in the cheerful fields.

How would you describe the ideal Pasquale Bruni woman?

For sure, it’s a strong, self confident woman who can wear it’s collections with great character.

As we know, Pasquale Bruni is a very popular jewellery brand among Russian customers. Which are your best selling collections for Russian customers?

Ghirlanda is one of the first collections which first succeeded in the Russian market and we developed it in the Russian market over the years with other variations red and aquamarines etc and it’s probably the most recognized.

You have collaborated with a prestigious group in China, to showcase your collections. Do you plan to open any stand-alone stores in China?

Not at the moment. We are looking at the market and looking at collaborations. It’s an important market and we want to come in with a good partnership and distribution. At present we are concentrating on tourists who visit locations like Galleries Lafayette etc while in cities like Milan and Rome and other parts of the world.

Tell us about your long relationship with the Damas Group.

It’s a long term relationship which started 20 – 25 years ago. We feel they are the right partner which has the expertise and high quality of management. And we are here to also help Damas’ business to grow.

Can we expect any special collections for Chinese or Russian customers from your brand?

Pasquale Bruni creations are timeless and forever. It’s more a matter of the concept remaining the same, where you can play with the concept and the colours. Of course there are certain pieces which may be suitable for certain nationalities. But we don’t create collections for a particular market.

The idea behind Pasquale Bruni jewelry is a reflection of shape, poetry, mystery, and a love song that breathes life into it. Each piece is a small work of art that reveals glimpses of history, conveys beauty, and encapsulates sentiment.

COLLECTIONS:  This year’s collection is highlighted by Mandala, which blossoms from the lotus flower.  It’s the power of color, fused with an intimate and fascinating light and a labyrinth of emotions from which one emerges full of regenerative energy and the fascinating warmth of light.  The Hindu mantra—Om mani padme hum—is reflected in these  alluring jewels to signify a gem amidst the lotus flower, and helps attain the purer light and energy of love.  “The woman is a goddess,” said Eugenia Bruni.  “Each petal encloses emotions and mysteries. The jewel must represent her soul and exalt her light.”

One line in the Mandala collection is expressed in the shades of pink, purple and azure—colors symbolizing metamorphosis, love, mystery and peace.  These are in the form of a regal necklace of oriental inspiration, jointed bracelets, earrings resembling the shapes of nature, and fascinating rings.  All the jewels are adorned with amethyst, iolite, rhodolite, blue topaz, and the noble black spinel.

Also reflected in this collection are elements of beauty and allure in the exclusive shades of azure, brown and pure white, which embody tranquility, tenacity and purity.  They can be seen, in particular, in the large medallion, the round earrings, and the crest rings that provide a subtle and refined glow of blue topaz, smoky and milky quartz.

The latest for the Bon Ton line, the flower-shaped collection, bears tribute to the fascinating elegance of Clori, the goddess of flowers, who with the onset of spring becomes a nymph in the cheerful fields. They are jewels like the talisman of love, as seen in a crown of splendid white diamonds that enclose a seductive and mysterious black gem.  Rings, pendants, earrings and hanging earrings that seem to bloom from the ear itself are what comprise the collection in white gold, white diamonds and onyx.  The two-in- one hanging earrings can be seen to evoke a flower theme, as well objects reflecting light, making this piece of jewelry particular and more precious.

The regally elegant flight of the Liberty collection is dazzling, and recalls the concept of freedom and artistic movement that breaks away from the styles of the past to create a totally original one.  Inspired by nature and set in a unique decorative style, this collection centers around the form of a butterfly.  Graceful and fascinating, the butterfly becomes an amazingly precious piece of jewelry with an astonishing design, and through the jeweler’s characteristic pavé technique provide the glow of these haunting beauties:  brown and white diamonds, pink sapphires, tourmaline, and pink quartz all come together to display a graceful mix of colors, almost like shimmering silk set in the warmth of pink gold.

These are just some of the newer items in a collection with soul, of jewels containing elements that epitomize nature, creation, and especially love.