March to your own drumbeat

Pioneers are those few who march to their own drumbeat, defined as that inner guiding voice that rarely abandons us in our lives. Firmly focused on their goal, they move towards it with dogged determination, come hail or sandstorm until it is attained. Such are tales from the hoary land of horology from where we select the most thrilling novelties of the season by the world’s leading brands. Among them you’ll discover exciting tributes to the Chinese Year of the Goat, minute repeaters, romantic moonphase watches, worldtimers and much more designed to keep you riveted…          

The beautiful Julianne Moore dazzled in Chanel's Premiere watch at the Variety Creative Impact Awards 2015. Immensely talented Moore won the Best Actress Golden Globe Award in a Drama for ‘Still Alice’, where she portrays a successful Columbia university professor who struggles to maintain both her mind and herself after being diagnosed with the early onset of Alzheimer’s and the toll it takes on her family. Other actors in this must-watch biopic include Alec Baldwin and Kristen Stewart. Though cure for the disease has been elusive so far, energy healers have met with fair deal of success by employing a simple remedy: salt water baths. Or if you happen to live in a coastal city, do make it a point to occasionally splash in the sea as it’s a great preventive too.     

The famous Parisian brand recently unfurled its new Première Rock watch collection, which combines the sophistication inherent to the Chanel name with an edgier, more contemporary rock ‘” roll style. First created back in 1987 by Jacques Helleu, it was the first timepiece for the brand. Its rectangular case was inspired by the Chanel No.5 perfume bottle stopper and the shape of Place Vendome, located in Paris, France. The collection consists of four models: the Première Rock Métal with a double-wrap steel chain bracelet with a black lacquered dial (€4,500) and the Première Rock Rose, Beige or Bleu with a triple-wrap bracelet interlaced with dyed leather (pink, beige or blue, respectively) and a mother-of-pearl dial. Both models come with a high-precision quartz movement. They are also water resistant at up to 30 meters underwater.

In 1993, Caroline Scheufele dreamed up one of the most fascinating jewellery innovations in recent decades. With its famous moving diamonds dancing across the dial, the Happy Sport rapidly established itself as a Chopard icon. It has been interpreted over the years through countless evocative identities, sometimes with humour and consistently with elegance. For its 20th anniversary in 2013, it added a mechanical dimension to its bewitching charm. Chopard now introduces a new two-tone setting for this automatic movement, featuring a case and a bracelet creating extremely refined contrasts between steel and pink gold. Meanwhile, in keeping with the “Happy Sport” spirit, seven diamonds twirl freely across the silver-toned dial

Swiss luxury watch manufacture Jaquet Droz pays grand tribute to the Chinese Year of the Goat by unveiling two new models from its Ateliers d'Art collection. Its artisans decided to represent not just one goat, but three featured on the summit of an imaginary mountain, like an allegory of achievement and the hope of success for the year ahead. Each element of the body, each minute detail, is thrown into relief in three dimensions with skillful touch.

The backdrop of a stylized dial evokes a motif of plum blossom in pure, simple lines d'Art used champlevé enameling, a particularly demanding technique that guarantees a result of exceptional delicacy. The metal is hollowed out according to the desired design and the hollows are then filled with enamel, fired and hand-polished. The finished dial is reminiscent of the exquisitely fragile masterpieces of "Jianzhi," the Chinese art of paper cutting that dates from the middle of the first millennium. Together with bamboo, chrysanthemum and orchid, plum blossom is one of the four noble flowers that featured in Chinese iconography over 1,600 years ago. They stand out against a background of white mother-of-pearl or black onyx, two materials that reappear on the underside of an oscillating weight surmounted by a ram's head. Limited to just 28 pieces each, these two models work equally well in the fresh palette of white gold and Jaquet Droz blue and in the warm tones of red gold paired with a delicious wine burgundy.

Legendary name Vacheron Constantin presents The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac in its Métiers d’Art collection in tribute to the Year of the Goat which takes over from the horse on 19^th Feb 2015 and is a symbol of a vivacious, independent spirit. And it’s the cutest Billy Goat you ever did see, presented in two new watch creations magnificently enhanced by enamelling and engraving. Vacheron first began establishing a trust-based relationship with China from 1845 onwards.

Its engravers and Grand Feu enamellers have worked in alternating pairs on the Year of the Goat, models crafted in pink gold or platinum and issued in two 12-piece limited series exclusively available through Vacheron Constantin Boutiques. The highly original display includes a hands-free display of time through four windows respectively revealing the hour, the minutes, the day and the date. Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour, the mechanical self-winding movement Calibre 2460 G4 is equipped with a 22k gold oscillating weight adorned with a dynamic geometrical motif inspired by the shape of the Maltese Cross, the historical House emblem.

Piaget celebrates Chinese New Year with its strikingly attractive, black and white, 38mm watch ‘The Year of the Ram Altiplano’ capturing the animal in a proud and noble posture. It also pays tribute to cultural enamelled features on the cloisonné enamel dial — a technique employed in this collection. Hailed as the ‘master of thin’, the Altiplano collection lends itself to being the perfect canvas for the ancient and delicate technique of enamelling. The details are varying hues of grey, with a technique that renders no two pieces the same using temperatures that reach between 820 and 850 degrees centigrade for firing the enamel. The Year of the Ram Altiplano comes in just 38 pieces.

Offering a new interpretation of worldtime, one of the most useful complications in fine watchmaking, the Montblanc Heritage Spirit Orbis Terrarum literally adds a global perspective. The world itself, in Latin “orbis terrarum”, is at the core of the manufacture complication and at the centre of the dial. The multilayer dial made of sapphire crystal shows the continents as viewed from the North Pole which are encircled by the name of the 24 cities representing the different timezones. Under the continent cut-outs, a disc showing day/night as well as the 24 hours timezones rotates with the movement mechanism, causing the continents to change colour as day evolves into night. Thanks to this innovative and intuitive concept, it is possible to see what time of day or night it is in 24 time zones around the world – at a single glance.

With the beautifully decorated planisphere in the centre of the manufacture complication, every detail of this cosmopolitan timepiece reflects the finest Swiss watchmaking craft. The sapphire crystal dial, the elegant dauphine hands, the 41 mm case in 18 K red gold or stainless steel with its polished and satinated decorations are a testimony to the passion and dedication of Montblanc’s master watchmakers

A reflection of Longines' presence at the world's most prestigious equestrian events and almost two centuries of watchmaking tradition, the new Conquest Classic Moonphase captures one of the essential qualities of equestrian sport: elegance. This new chronograph with moonphase display subtly combines Longines' horological expertise, its association with the equestrian world since 1878, and its innate sense of sophistication. Proposed in various executions, this model will appeal to men in search of a refined timepiece to wear amidst the excitement of the racecourse.

Patek Philippe presents the Watch Art Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition London 2015 project, which will take place from May 27 to June 7, 2015 at the Saatchi Gallery, bringing to a close its 175^th anniversary celebrations, which started on May 1st 2014.

One of the brand’s anniversary models is the World Time Moon Refs. 5575 and 7175, a unique watch that does not contain an existing caliber but reinterprets a classic complication – in this case the moon phase display, coupled with a world time function. On the 5575/7175, the moon phase display is composed of two thin, superimposed glass disks. The upper and lower disks work together to expose the phase of the moon, which is realistically depicted on a lower disk, rotating once every 29.53 days, in accordance with the actual moon cycles.

Both versions enshrine the newly developed Caliber 240 HU LU, based on an ultra-thin self-winding movement powered by a 22k gold micro-rotor that is recessed into the plate – keeping the watch fairly slim at 9.5mm for the men’s and 9.36 for the ladies’ piece. The Calatrava-style case is 18k white gold for the men’s version (39.8mm) and 18k rose gold for the ladies’ piece (38mm) while the bezel on the ladies’ version is set with 70 flawless Top Wesselton (G color) diamonds. The world time function features Patek’s optimized time zone mechanism, patented in 1999, which allows all adjustments to be performed with a single pusher at 10 o’clock on the case side. As a tribute to Patek Philippe’s heritage, Central European Time is represented by the city of Geneva instead of Paris on the world city ring.

It’s like wearing a gold coin on your wrist! The energy of Versace watches is confirmed by the new V-Metal Icon. Unusual and intriguing, it draws its inspiration from a vintage strap buckle, revisited in an innovative interpretation. The attention is drawn to the Medusa in the center of the dial, surrounded by the Greek key motif. The bezel is decorated to resemble a gourmette, the classic curb link chain.

But the truly original feature is an affichage that reminds us of the “mystery” watches. The high precision Swiss Made quartz movement doesn’t indicate the passing of time with the usual hands, but with two triangular indexes that seem to be suspended in mid air, but are in fact mounted on rotating crystal glass disks and point to hours and minutes marked in relief on the rehaut.

The 40 mm diameter case is made from two tone steel and has a grooved carrure, but a version is also available made entirely from steel or IP rose gold. The black (or white) patent leather strap is decorated by geometrically shaped metal elements.

For the first time in the Villeret collection, Blancpain is offering a timepiece with a large date. This elegant and useful complication enables optimal readability of the date by means of a display comprising two broad apertures. Calibre 6950 beating at the heart of this timepiece comprises two barrels and an ingenious large date mechanism equipped with a protective shock-absorbing system. This remarkable accurate and reliable automatic movement also features a variable-inertia balance with a silicon balance-spring and gold adjusting screws. With its classic double-stepped red gold case and its opaline dial, the Villeret Large Date embodies all the values of traditional watchmaking and bears the signature pure lines and timeless aesthetic of the entire Villeret collection.

Ulysse Nardin brings history to life with a retelling of Hannibal's epic march on elephants over the Pyrenees and the Alps, in the third century B.C. It portrays Hannibal on horseback, in the thick of the action, surrounded by his loyal warriors riding elephants. All these characters have been transformed into jacks and are sculpted in white gold, as are the landscape and mountains in the background. The entire scene is set on a dial in genuine Alpine granite. Ulysse Nardin is one of the very few watchmakers anywhere in the world with the ability to incorporate jacks into the dial of its minute-repeater wristwatches. These animated figures move in time to the four chimes that sound the minutes, quarters, hours and any other combination set by the wearer. The spinning tourbillon at 6 o'clock adds a final flourish to this exceptional timepiece, which is produced as a 30-piece limited series.

Introduced in 2014, Carl F. Bucherer’s Patravi ScubaTec returns in a new execution that matches the functional design of a dive watch with the glimmer of pink gold for the case. A focal point of this uniquely seductive timepiece is the blue and black ceramic that circles the bezel. The dial, meanwhile, is finished with a pattern of scales that reflect the light, much like the shimmer on the surface of the waves. The Patravi ScubaTec is, of course, at home underwater where it makes the perfect diving buddy for deep-sea exploration, thanks to its 500-metres water resistance. The chronometer-certified movement tracks time with constant precision and reliability while the helium valve automatically depressurises to prevent damage to the case. The unidirectional rotating bezel guarantees optimal security even if the bezel is accidentally knocked. Luminescent hour-markers remain perfectly legible even in murky underwater conditions. The sturdy rubber strap can be adjusted to wear over a diving suit.

The first company to be entrusted with the official timekeeping of all disciplines at the Los Angeles Games in 1932, OMEGA'S name has become synonymous with the Olympic Games. Its association with golf is equally well acclaimed. Founded in 1848, twelve years before the first-ever British Open took place at Prestwick golf course near Glasgow, OMEGA'S rich golf portfolio includes tour and tournament sponsorship in Europe and Asia in addition to supporting the PGA’s tournaments, including the PGA Championship and the Ryder Cup when it is contested in the United States.

Along with the championship trophy and a cheque at the OMEGA Dubai Desert Classic, the winner of the OMEGA Dubai Desert Classic 2015, Rory McIlroy was presented a luxurious 41.5 mm OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axialwatch. The innovative and stylish timepiece is equipped with a fully anti-magnetic mechanical movement, and its 18K red gold case features a lacquered grey dial decorated with the Teak Concept pattern that the watches in this collection are known for. A date window at the 3 o’clock position graces the dial and is complemented by 18K red gold indexes. It is presented on a brown leather strap with an 18K red gold buckle. Its transparent caseback allows an unobstructed view of the revolutionary OMEGA Master Co-Axial calibre 8501 which boasts the precision and reliability of its Co-Axial cousins and the ability to resist strong magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss.

It was a double treat of sorts for the famous watchmaker as both the winners are OMEGA’s brand ambassadors. Acclaimed Chinese golfer Shanshan Feng was presented with an OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axial wristwatch with an 18K Sedna™ gold case, a diamond-paved bezel and an elegant mother-of-pearl dial with diamond indexes. It is powered by the OMEGA Master Co-Axial calibre 8521, which resists magnetic fields greater than 15,000 gauss.

TAG Heuer has two newcomers on board – its charming new brand ambassador Cara Delevingne and the Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph. The latter houses the finest avant-garde mechanism in existence: the Calibre CH 80, an in-house manufactured movement combining thinness and endurance with an unprecedented 80-hour power reserve. Inspired by the first generation of Carrera watches, the Carrera Calibre CH 80 Chronograph reinterprets the aesthetic codes established by its illustrious forebears, giving them a modern and sporty twist.

Loyal to the design created in 1963 by Jack Heuer – the man behind some of the most revolutionary advances in the field of sports timing – the displays are arranged in a classic layout, with the chronograph minutes counter at 3 o’clock, the chronograph hours counter at 9 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock. The overall look is based on black and white contrasts, while the slim movement and sleek design gives it a vintage touch that has been enhanced by a few sporty references, including red accents on the central seconds hands and the tips of the small hands, as well as on the inner bezel ring, the crown and the first quarter of the minute track. The polished steel case with facetted lugs is fitted with a sapphire crystal case-back offering a chance to view the beauty and power of the new TAG Heuer movement, Calibre CH 80.

Glashütte Original’s Pavonina – Latin for peacock - celebrates women in all their facets. Its dazzling models are as impressive and seductive as the contemporary, confident women for whom they were created and are filled with light and rare beauty, mirroring the faceted diversity

of women today. Set with 513 radiant sparkling diamonds it celebrates the modern women who stepped onto society's stage in the 1920s. Having broken with the old clichés and constrictions, they were free to combine intelligence with strength, femininity and tenderness.

The unique shape of its case dates back to the 1920s, when the distinctive “cushion” shape was widely used with wristwatches. The delicate metal bracelet created in the manufactory resembles a piece of fine jewellery: its individual links present a successful interpretation of the cushion shape of the case. It is powered by the quartz movement, caliber 03-01. Rounding out the bracelet offering is a fascinating selection of coloured straps: shimmering satin in petrol green, violet or rich anthracite, or high-gloss patent leather in mocca brown and violet. The cushion shape of the case is mirrored, framed by fine guilloche finishing, in the centre of the dial. All models feature a date window at 6 o’clock, and filigreed hands mark the time of day. An innovative, three-time magnetic protective shields the sensitive mechanism against the influences of modern mobile phones and thus increased even further the quality of very finely finished movement.

Last year, Zenith released the original Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage, an exceptionally complex watch that puts a fusée and chain constant force mechanism and a unique Gravity Control module on full display. This year, Zenith follows it up with a 45 mm sequel, and one that adds ornate decoration and artistry to the mix in honor of the explorer. Unlike the original, the new Voyage II adds artistic embellishments to both the dial side and the display back. The dial side is still largely a cavernous structure, allowing each of the movement components to remain visible. Around the back, there is a vivid entirely hand-engraved portrayal illustrating Christopher Columbus’ discovery of America in 1492.

It has two remarkable systems at work, both visible through the dial. The first is a fusée and chain constant force mechanism (operating between 10:30 and 1:30 on the dial), which is meant to counteract the loss of amplitude associated with the watch's unhiding mainspring. And the second is the Gravity Control module, which occupies the large sphere set into the case and sapphire at 6 o’clock which features a micro-painted depiction of the Southern Hemisphere.. Unlike a tourbillon, this gyroscopic mechanism serves to keep the regulating organ in a horizontal position, regardless of the watch’s orientation on the wrist.

Generally most watches are meant to remind you about the time, but some are so beautifully and painstakingly crafted to make you forget all about Time and its numerous tensions. One such is Cartier’s amazing Ballon Bleu de Cartier 42mm, orchid granulation and engraved mother-of-pearl motif watch. It portrays three engraved, mother-of-pearl pink orchid motifs in the centre of the dial with petals covered in red enamel, featured against a rich backdrop of minute, 22k yellow gold granulation. Crafted in the Parisian brand’s famous tradition, it has an 18k yellow gold case set with brilliant-cut diamonds, a fluted crown set with a sapphire cabochon, sword-shaped hands in gilded steel, a 18k yellow gold dial, 22-carat yellow gold granulation, orchid motif in engraved mother-of-pearl and is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement. It comes in a limited edition of 40 individually numbered timepieces. Water resistant to 30 meters, it is matched by a white alligator skin strap with a folding buckle in 18-carat yellow and pink gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds.

Is that a jeweled reptile on your wrist? Then it must be a Bulgari Serpenti! The Italian luxury brand's famous collection is so intrinsically associated with this collection and its name that just spotting someone wearing a snake bracelet makes one recall the famous collection. A powerful and tactile experience is promised for the wearer who dares with an extremely textured and sparkling creation. The jewellery watch by this legendary 130-year old brand is also shaped in a rather interesting fashion if you notice. The head of the serpent, (which hides the watch face on its tongue as it were), is designed to make a ‘crossover’ with its tail, all while keeping its two watchful ruby eyes carefully trained on its wearer. The look is cutely protective and is designed to serve as a reminder of your various appointments throughout the day.

Roger Dubuis meanwhile has declared 2015 as ‘The Year of the Skeleton.’ It debuted a new time-only version of its popular Excalibur Skeleton collection at SIHH 2015 presented in a 42 mm pink gold case, with the same aesthetic as the tourbillon models, such as the distinctive grey rhodium-plated and circular grained skeletonized bridges, but in an automatic with just hours and minutes. Roger Dubuis automatic caliber RD820SQ is made 100% in-house and the brands signature skeletonized mainplate, bridges and micro-rotor. It has a total of 167 parts (35 jewels), runs at 3Hz, and has a power reserve of 60-hours. The watch meets the standards of Poinçon de Genève which includes strict finishing and timekeeping requirements. It is paired with a brown alligator strap and matching pink gold folding clasp.

German luxury watch brand A. Lange & Sohne has unveiled three new models in its elegant, understated Saxonia collection. The new-generation versions of the Saxonia, Saxonia Automatic, and Saxonia Dual Time all feature subtly redesigned dials, with two models also sporting new case dimensions. For its new Saxonia dials, A. Lange & Söhne moved the gold applied hour indices closer to the periphery of the dial and added double-baton indices at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock. The black gradations of the minutes scale have been slightly lengthened. On two of the models — the Saxonia Automatic and Saxonia Dual Time — numerals are now used for the tens markers. Lange says that all of the dial modifications have been executed in the name of enhanced legibility. Two of the new Saxonia models have a slightly reduced case size. The manual-winding Saxonia, which contains manufacture Caliber L941.1, now comes in a 35-mm case, while the Saxonia Dual Time (with automatic Caliber L086.2) is now offered in a 38.5-mm case, matching the dimensions of the Saxonia Automatic (powered by Caliber L086.1).

Baume & Mercier introduced its Clifton collection in 2013 drawing design inspiration from a 1950s vintage model. It has since added both a complete calendar and a chronograph to this vintage-look family of dressy men’s watches. The newest evolution of the Clifton includes a pair of practical complications, a big date and power-reserve display. Its 43mm stainless steel Clifton Big Date and Power Reserve has a large date display on two disks in a single window at 12 o’clock and an indication of the 40-hour power reserve at 6 o’clock. It has a silvery satin-finished dial, under a sapphire crystal enhanced by the applied hour numerals and indices. The Swiss-made automatic movement — including the winding rotor engraved with the Greek letter “Phi,” which represents both the brand’s logo and its “Divine Proportions” aesthetic code — is visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback. A module has been added to the base movement to power the date display and power-reserve indication, which displays to the wearer how much tension remains in the watch’s barrel spring. It is water-resistant to 50 meters and comes on a brown alligator strap with triple-folding buckle.

To mark the occasion of the 75th anniversary of the Portugieser watch family, IWC has decided to pay fitting tribute to a little known yet wonderfully attractive version of the original Portugieser with the new Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “75th Anniversary”. The design of this limited anniversary edition is almost identical to that of its predecessor from the 1930s with its legendary black and white dial, while the act of manually winding the movement once a week is a pleasing ritual. It is homage to a version of the original Portugieser that until now has been fairly unknown and features all the attributes which have defined the appearance of the Portugieser to this day: Arabic numerals, slim feuille hands, railway-track-style chapter ring and small seconds at “6 o’clock”. However, the inner chapter ring, hour indices and Arabic numerals are aesthetically very prominent in gold brown with black edging. The new Reference IW510206 in 18-carat red gold with silver-plated dial has inherited the colour scheme and company logo of its forebear almost without change. A new feature is the date display on the subdial at “6 o’clock”: in the 21st century, that level of convenience is de rigueur in a watch.

Jaeger-LeCoutre's Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Orbital is an exceptional watch is a perfect combination of Fine Watchmaking expertise and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rare Crafts®. In the heart of its case set with baguette-cut diamonds, is a flying tourbillon positioned above a dial that is also set with baguette-cut diamonds. The tourbillon reproduces the movement of the earth, which makes a complete turn on its axis and in relation to the vernal point in 23 hours, 56 seconds and four seconds – namely a full sidereal day. The entire dial performs this majestically sedate revolution in an anti-clockwise direction, presenting a new face of the watch at every moment of the day. The inspiration for this watch was the sun shining through a cloud, painting the sky with outgoing rays. On this model, the legendary brand’s experts have devised a pyramid-style gemsetting technique in which the baguette-cut diamonds are arranged in such a way as to create a volume that unfurls like a dainty corolla, causing the depth effects to heighten the dancing sparkle of the precious stones. The experience is unique, as indeed is the fact of wearing a Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Orbital.