The body, that of women in particular, is both a matter of fact and a cultural construct, of which beauty canons change over time, imposing now tense verticality, now soft horizontality, celebrating certain parts of the anatomy over others. In the system of Haute Couture this drive to idealization materializes in the body of the house model, on which everything is designed and built, becoming real while remaining an abstraction.
Driven by the urgency of rethinking the rituals and... Read More
By definition, haute couture is handmade, from start to finish. The labor-intensive process is hidden in the details, and to the untrained eye, all there is to see is exquisite runway plastered with detailed embroidery, fancy embellishments, and expertise in textile manipulation. But what we rarely think about is the time that goes into it. These made-to-measure designer items are akin to art, and many belong in a museum. For Dior’s spring-summer 2022 haute couture collection, sometimes it... Read More
Glenn Martens unveils his vision of Gaultier haute couture – the second designer to do so, after Chitose Abe of Sacai last season – Martens was doing what he does so well: exuding grace and humor under pressure. And make no mistake, the pressure is indeed on. “Apparently, with couture, you finish it the minute before it goes on the runway,” Martens said, with a laugh. “So, we are a bit stressed, but not for the first time.”
One of the looks he was furiously working on, viewed courtesy... Read More
As reticent as Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are, they indubitably know something that the rest of us don’t or they frame the expected in ways that make us reconsider it. That is certainly the case with their latest collection, which at first glance, might seem to tread familiar ground, with coat shapes resembling those from their Russian doll collection for fall 1999, and slogan sashes from spring 2019. The pair carried over their interest in jeweled embellishments here, though in... Read More
No need “to celebrate the excellence”, as there’s no such thing as perfection. Although there’s indeed very important research related to artificial intelligence, new technologies in general which became a part of fashion, shown by models. Dolce & Gabbana and the Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia (IIT) in this Fall Winter 2021-2022 show brought up research in the technological field and its infinite applications, fashion included.
The multifunctional humanoid robots iCub and R1 (... Read More
The long months of mask-wearing that followed the burst of the pandemic inspired Zuhair Murad to create a collection instilled with the spirit of the city where masks are quintessential: Venice.
For Winter 2022, the couturier is reinventing the flamboyance of the Serenissima where subtle Oriental influences prevail. He pays tribute to the City of the Doges which, while fighting invasions and battling diseases never let go of its passion for luxury, arts and beauty, its best weapons... Read More
Over eighty percent of the ocean is completely unmapped and unexplored. A far greater percentage of the moon’s surfaces have been studied and recorded than the ocean floor has. The deep blue waters remain a mystery. To present Sprint/Summer 2021 collection Donatella Versace transports us underwater to Versacepolis. As the world resiliently adapts to the new normal, this sub-surface show setting is an opportunity for the Versace community to indulge in a little fantasy and dive headfirst into... Read More
Lake Como is the background of the SS21 ADV Campaign dedicated to the Devotion Bag: a delight for the eyes made even more unique by the charm of the protagonist Monica Bellucci. Just three years after its launch, transported down the catwalk by flying drones, the Devotion Bag has already become an iconic Dolce&Gabbana model, presented in varying materials, shapes and sizes. A declaration of love and devotion to elegance, the craftsmanship and attention to detail sealed by the Sacred... Read More
Across history, moments of reset, or restart, invariably put human values at the center. Humanism is the seed of rebirth.
Of ‘Grace and Light,’ the show marked the debut of a new era, with 16 immaculate silhouettes where the color white transmitted dreams and traced the contours of a new beginning with endless possibilities.
This is one of such moments. Focusing on fashion as the profoundly human activity of giving form to matter through the hands, shaping creations that the... Read More
“Fatto A Mano” – it means made by hand. But it also means “that every human touch contributes to the creation of every garment”. And on this sunny Sunday in Milan, the Italian House’s savoir-faire was alive and well as show-goers had an exclusive look at the artisan’s mastery as they entered the venue. And so, the collection was a breath of fresh air that took our minds away from winter’s hardship. In the fashion industry, that meant turning any wintery staple piece into something that no... Read More