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Runway Reviews
Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection
22 Mar 2023
For Chanel’s Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture collection, Virginie Viyard and Xavier Veilhan headed to Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, Rue Cambon and found inspiration in the collection of objects, sculptures, drawings representing lions, does, stags, birds and camels displayed at this emblematic address. Reinterpreting the apartment’s bestiary in an exquisite way fit for a Couture collection, this world of animals came to life through embroideries on short tweed suits and coat dresses,... Read More
Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023
13 Feb 2023
In 1308, the poet Dante Alighieri began what would be his masterwork, The Divine Comedy, a 14,233-line poem divided into three books: Inferno, Purgatorio, and Paradiso.
We all know this work, by name if not by heart. And yet when I revisited it recently, I was struck by something I’d missed when I first encountered it—not the horror of hell that Dante conjures so vividly, nor the sense of despair that overcomes you as you descend further and further into the realm—but by how the story... Read More
The tree of life in Dior's Haute Couture FW22
12 Dec 2022
The tree of life is the starting point for the Dior Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2022-2023 collection, imagined by Maria Grazia Chiuri, Artistic Director of the Maison. This Dior collection is composed of a series of pieces through which folkloric imaginations resonate.
A vision that freely invests several models thanks to the profusion of embroidery, made of cotton threads, silk and rope. The shades of beige are sometimes punctuated by a touch of black or blue. These embroideries are... Read More
Michael Kors Fall 2022: A lot of statement outerwear
06 Oct 2022
Kors leaned into what he does best, classic tailoring for dressing up during day, draped and asymmetrically cut jersey sequin gowns, dynamic knits, and lots and lots of statement outerwear.
“When I think about New York, it’s the stride, it’s always the stride,” said Michael Kors, previewing his fall collection about stepping out and turning heads.
Kors shifted his show to the evening hours this season, and enlisted Miguel to warm up the crowd. He got toes tapping, including... Read More
Valentino: Anatomy of Couture
27 May 2022
The body, that of women in particular, is both a matter of fact and a cultural construct, of which beauty canons change over time, imposing now tense verticality, now soft horizontality, celebrating certain parts of the anatomy over others. In the system of Haute Couture this drive to idealization materializes in the body of the house model, on which everything is designed and built, becoming real while remaining an abstraction.
Driven by the urgency of rethinking the rituals and... Read More
Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022
15 Apr 2022
By definition, haute couture is handmade, from start to finish. The labor-intensive process is hidden in the details, and to the untrained eye, all there is to see is exquisite runway plastered with detailed embroidery, fancy embellishments, and expertise in textile manipulation. But what we rarely think about is the time that goes into it. These made-to-measure designer items are akin to art, and many belong in a museum. For Dior’s spring-summer 2022 haute couture collection, sometimes it... Read More
Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring/Summer 2022 by Glenn Martens
24 Mar 2022
Glenn Martens unveils his vision of Gaultier haute couture – the second designer to do so, after Chitose Abe of Sacai last season – Martens was doing what he does so well: exuding grace and humor under pressure. And make no mistake, the pressure is indeed on. “Apparently, with couture, you finish it the minute before it goes on the runway,” Martens said, with a laugh. “So, we are a bit stressed, but not for the first time.”
One of the looks he was furiously working on, viewed courtesy... Read More
Viktor & Rolf explores the world’s obsession with royalty
17 Feb 2022
As reticent as Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are, they indubitably know something that the rest of us don’t or they frame the expected in ways that make us reconsider it. That is certainly the case with their latest collection, which at first glance, might seem to tread familiar ground, with coat shapes resembling those from their Russian doll collection for fall 1999, and slogan sashes from spring 2019. The pair carried over their interest in jeweled embellishments here, though in... Read More
Dolce & Gabbana: Digital transformation of fashion
13 Dec 2021
No need “to celebrate the excellence”, as there’s no such thing as perfection. Although there’s indeed very important research related to artificial intelligence, new technologies in general which became a part of fashion, shown by models. Dolce & Gabbana and the Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia (IIT) in this Fall Winter 2021-2022 show brought up research in the technological field and its infinite applications, fashion included.
The multifunctional humanoid robots iCub and R1 (... Read More
Zuhair Murad Haute Couture FW 2021 inspired by Venetian spirit
04 Oct 2021
The long months of mask-wearing that followed the burst of the pandemic inspired Zuhair Murad to create a collection instilled with the spirit of the city where masks are quintessential: Venice.
For Winter 2022, the couturier is reinventing the flamboyance of the Serenissima where subtle Oriental influences prevail. He pays tribute to the City of the Doges which, while fighting invasions and battling diseases never let go of its passion for luxury, arts and beauty, its best weapons... Read More
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