Runway Reviews

Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring/Summer 2022 by Glenn Martens

Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring/Summer 2022 by Glenn Martens

24 Mar 2022

Glenn Martens unveils his vision of Gaultier haute couture – the second designer to do so, after Chitose Abe of Sacai last season – Martens was doing what he does so well: exuding grace and humor under pressure. And make no mistake, the pressure is indeed on. “Apparently, with couture, you finish it the minute before it goes on the runway,” Martens said, with a laugh. “So, we are a bit stressed, but not for the first time.”

One of the looks he was furiously working on, viewed courtesy... Read More

Viktor & Rolf explores the world’s obsession with royalty

Viktor & Rolf explores the world’s obsession with royalty

17 Feb 2022

As reticent as Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are, they indubitably know something that the rest of us don’t or they frame the expected in ways that make us reconsider it. That is certainly the case with their latest collection, which at first glance, might seem to tread familiar ground, with coat shapes resembling those from their Russian doll collection for fall 1999, and slogan sashes from spring 2019. The pair carried over their interest in jeweled embellishments here, though in... Read More

Dolce & Gabbana: Digital transformation of fashion

Dolce & Gabbana: Digital transformation of fashion

13 Dec 2021

No need “to celebrate the excellence”, as there’s no such thing as perfection. Although there’s indeed very important research related to artificial intelligence, new technologies in general which became a part of fashion, shown by models. Dolce & Gabbana and the Istituto Italiano di Tecnologia (IIT) in this Fall Winter 2021-2022 show brought up research in the technological field and its infinite applications, fashion included.

The multifunctional humanoid robots iCub and R1 (... Read More

Zuhair Murad Haute Couture FW 2021 inspired by Venetian spirit

Zuhair Murad Haute Couture FW 2021 inspired by Venetian spirit

04 Oct 2021

The long months of mask-wearing that followed the burst of the pandemic inspired Zuhair Murad to create a collection instilled with the spirit of the city where masks are quintessential: Venice.

For Winter 2022, the couturier is reinventing the flamboyance of the Serenissima where subtle Oriental influences prevail. He pays tribute to the City of the Doges which, while fighting invasions and battling diseases never let go of its passion for luxury, arts and beauty, its best weapons... Read More

Versace Spring-Summer 2021: welcome to Versacepolis

Versace Spring-Summer 2021: welcome to Versacepolis

16 Jun 2021

Over eighty percent of the ocean is completely unmapped and unexplored. A far greater percentage of the moon’s surfaces have been studied and recorded than the ocean floor has. The deep blue waters remain a mystery. To present Sprint/Summer 2021 collection Donatella Versace transports us underwater to Versacepolis. As the world resiliently adapts to the new normal, this sub-surface show setting is an opportunity for the Versace community to indulge in a little fantasy and dive headfirst into... Read More

Dolce&Gabbana's New Face of Devotion Bag Campaign SS21

Dolce&Gabbana's New Face of Devotion Bag Campaign SS21

19 Apr 2021

Lake Como is the background of the SS21 ADV Campaign dedicated to the Devotion Bag: a delight for the eyes made even more unique by the charm of the protagonist Monica Bellucci. Just three years after its launch, transported down the catwalk by flying drones, the Devotion Bag has already become an iconic Dolce&Gabbana model, presented in varying materials, shapes and sizes. A declaration of love and devotion to elegance, the craftsmanship and attention to detail sealed by the Sacred... Read More

Valentino Haute Couture Fall Winter 2020/2021

Valentino Haute Couture Fall Winter 2020/2021

11 Feb 2021

Across history, moments of reset, or restart, invariably put human values at the center. Humanism is the seed of rebirth.

Of ‘Grace and Light,’ the show marked the debut of a new era, with 16 immaculate silhouettes where the color white transmitted dreams and traced the contours of a new beginning with endless possibilities.

This is one of such moments. Focusing on fashion as the profoundly human activity of giving form to matter through the hands, shaping creations that the... Read More

Dolce & Gabbana's ode to craftsmanship

Dolce & Gabbana's ode to craftsmanship

22 Nov 2020

“Fatto A Mano” – it means made by hand. But it also means “that every human touch contributes to the creation of every garment”. And on this sunny Sunday in Milan, the Italian House’s savoir-faire was alive and well as show-goers had an exclusive look at the artisan’s mastery as they entered the venue. And so, the collection was a breath of fresh air that took our minds away from winter’s hardship. In the fashion industry, that meant turning any wintery staple piece into something that no... Read More

Gucci Fall-Winter 2020 -2021 Advertising Campaign, The Ritual

Gucci Fall-Winter 2020 -2021 Advertising Campaign, The Ritual

29 Jul 2020

Titled The Ritual, the new Gucci advertising campaign follows the reversal of perspective that characterized Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s vision for the Fall-Winter 2020-2021 show, where the audience was invited to witness what goes on behind the scenes, behind the curtains. Further exploring the idea of looking at things from a different point of view, new possibilities opened up.    Consequently, models were asked to be the authors of the new campaign and were given the brief to... Read More

Berluti Autumn Winter 2020

Berluti Autumn Winter 2020

05 Jul 2020

Heritage is the soul of menswear. A generational dialogue between tradition and change, it inspires and provokes the evolution of male dress. For Autumn-Winter 2020, Berluti intensifies and abstracts its own heritage in a free-spirited proposal for our time. Imagining what the maison’s century-old archives – entrenched in expert shoemaking – would look like had they encompassed tailoring, artistic director Kris Van Assche stages an exaggerated exchange between past and present. The... Read More

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