Runway Reviews

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda FW 17/18

Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda FW 17/18

26 Dec 2017

Around 430 clients, many of them new, travelled from across the world to the Sicilian capital of Palermo to experience the 126-look swoon that was Dolce & Gabbana’s latest Alta Moda show last night. And at Alta Moda, personal security detachments are ten a penny: The wealth that enables these super shoppers to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars, and sometimes considerably more, buying into this couture-but-beyond iteration of idealized Italian-ness comes with its own burdens.

... Read More
Gucci pre-fall 2017

Gucci pre-fall 2017

10 Oct 2017

When Gucci teased its Pre-Fall 2017 campaign at the beginning of the year with a series of elusive casting videos, featuring only models of color, we didn't know exactly what to expect — aside from the possibility that these individuals, who auditioned with Midland Agency in London, would likely dance and channel their inner spirit animal for the job. 

On Thursday morning, the Italian fashion house finally released the official ad campaign and, damn, did Alessandro Michele deliver. ... Read More

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture FW 2017/18

Ralph & Russo Haute Couture FW 2017/18

13 Sep 2017

A portrait of women, the Ralph & Russo Autumn Winter 2017/2018 collection takes inspiration from the identity and natural beauty captured by the grand masters Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton & Norman Parkinson.

Enthused by light and animation, this season’s palette is iridescent; a flash of ice mints and pearlescent lavenders, aqua blue double satins and crystal mesh in rose-gold hues.

Embroidery is crystallised like a photograph in time, whilst motion is captured in the... Read More

Valentino Haute Couture SS17

Valentino Haute Couture SS17

31 May 2017

Essence and truth. For this Valentino haute couture collection, Pierpaolo Piccioli interprets fashion to perfection. "As Shakespeare says, we are made of the same material as dreams," says the designer a few hours before the show. "Dreams bring everybody together, because they are timeless, just like the haute couture." Piccioli loves art, music, poetry and the oneiric side of fashion which, as he says, must be strictly timeless because "couture is made of special moments, rituals that make... Read More

Alexander McQueen  SS 2017

Alexander McQueen SS 2017

23 May 2017

The wild and magical coastal landscapes of the Shetland Islands were the origin of this collection. Their natural beauty has inspired local artisans who have passed their skills down through generations of women for centuries. In particular, gossamer fine Shetland Lace, worn by crofters’ daughters and royalty alike, woven with indigenous flora and fauna–wild heather, clover, poppies and roses; sea birds and underwater creatures both real and mythical–is re-imagined. The colourful interiors... Read More

Haute Couture SS17 Report

Haute Couture SS17 Report

02 Apr 2017

In many ways, Paris Haute Couture shared several characteristics with the women’s marches that took place around the world last weekend: both included prolonged periods of standing around outside in frigid temperatures, both engendered a female majority interest and one-of-a-kind ensembles featuring the colour pink, and both were attacked by sideline critics insisting they were pointless, reported Financial Times.

Wearable clothes at couture are something of an oxymoron: just where... Read More

Jean Paul Gaultier: Haute Couture FW16/17

Jean Paul Gaultier: Haute Couture FW16/17

28 Nov 2016

Jean Paul Gaultier took us into the woods with his couture collection. It was an unusual setup for JPG. He’s more likely to summon the ghosts of Paris’s legendary nightclub Le Palace, or re-create Dancing with the Stars with a supermodel cast and an all-star jury. Gaultier’s never struck anybody as the outdoorsy type, has he? He’s a people person. But in his trademark fashion, he did woodsy with gusto.

As such, a wood-grain print got things going, appearing on everything from a slinky... Read More

Valentino Haute Couture FW 2016-17

Valentino Haute Couture FW 2016-17

13 Nov 2016

The world as a stage, on which each individual represents himself, driven by passions, feelings, and by emotions that are infinite shades of living and being there. In the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare’s death, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli explore the idea of theatrum mundi for the Valentino Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2016-17 Collection.

The austere and moderate tone, the choice of dense colors, precious and nocturnal, upon which an opulent and deep black... Read More

Atelier Versace SS 2016

Atelier Versace SS 2016

09 Jun 2016

Clothes like seduction weapons, sartorial masterpieces that reveal the body. Donatella Versace keeps conveying her personal interpretation of haute couture and carries Atelier Versace towards a modern elegance, an almost dream-like elegance, with a haute couture-like perfection. Evening dresses and tuxedos, deconstructed and reassembled, kept in place by silicon bands or colored crystal ropes. Perforated mini bodices alternate with long chiffon dresses adorned by straps, or unveil precious... Read More

Gucci SS16 Ready-To-Wear

Gucci SS16 Ready-To-Wear

10 May 2016

Tenderness is the key word to interpret this Gucci collection. Alessandro Michele continues the narration he started last January and confirms his talent in interpreting today’s aesthetics and tastes. Under the pouring rain in a new venue, an old tram depot in Milan’s  outskirts, another chapter of the Gucci story is being written. La dérive, that is, losing oneself, is only the beginning of a narration that sums up all that Michele has done so far: an exploration made of vital traces,... Read More

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