Paris Couture Week FW 2025: A Season of Reimagined Heritage and Futuristic Grace

As Paris awakens to the whispered promises of haute couture, the city once again transforms into a living dreamscape, where silk and tulle speak the language of imagination. This season invites audiences into realms that are both poetic and profound. Designers are not merely preserving tradition, rather they are reinterpreting it with a forward-looking gaze marked by innovation and optimism.

This year’s Couture Week features 27 Maisons on the official calendar, echoing the pre-Olympics edition held last June. Among the newcomers is Dubai-based designer Rami Al Ali, making his debut appearance. “The committee is very selective,” noted Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

Among the returning names are Maison Margiela, Iris van Herpen, Aline André, Robert Wun, and Ardazaei by Swedish-Iranian designer Bahareh Ardakani. However, several notable houses are absent this season, signaling a reshaped couture landscape.

At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry channeled the surrealist spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli, evoking a narrative of beauty born from destruction. The collection struck a balance between modernity and timeless urgency. In contrast, Iris van Herpen immersed audiences in a bioluminescent, underwater dreamscape. Her creations resonated with a deep reverence for the natural world—highlighted by a showstopping dress made from 125 million bioluminescent algae—amplifying the urgency of environmental awareness.

At Chanel, the maison presented a soft, white fantasy in an intimate salon setting at Rue Cambon. Wintry tweeds, feathered capes, and whisper-light chiffon hinted at a modular couture wardrobe, upholding the house’s deep-rooted codes for its discreet clientele. This will be the final Chanel collection designed by the studio ahead of Matthieu Blazy’s anticipated debut in October.

While Dior is skipping this season, Jonathan Anderson is focusing on his women’s debut for the house in October. His own brand JW Anderson will show its Spring 2026 resort collection in Paris on Monday. The show will spotlight new collaborations celebrating the craft and culture at the heart of the label’s next chapter.

Several other major houses are also absent: Valentino has opted to present couture once a year (in January) under Alessandro Michele, while Fendi, which hasn’t shown since January 2024 following Kim Jones’s departure, remains on hiatus. Givenchy has not returned to couture in recent years, though speculation around a revival under Sarah Burton continues to swirl – just not for this season.

Designer Julie de Libran will return with a collection she describes as “romantic, timeless, and seasonless,” presented once again at her home. Featuring 28 silhouettes, the line draws inspiration from historical craftsmanship, including corsetry and interior fabrics – a nod to how, in Renaissance Venice, ball gowns were often made from luxurious upholstery materials. “Nature and love are taking over,” she teased ahead of the show.

Giambattista Valli, newly promoted to Officier of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, will forgo a runway show in favor of a private presentation. He will receive his honor in a closed ceremony, marking a significant recognition of his influence on French culture.

Giorgio Armani returns with his Privé collection at the brand’s Paris headquarters—a 19th-century hôtel particulier on rue François 1er, now known as Palazzo Armani. The venue houses his couture ateliers and serves as a symbol of his enduring legacy.

Meanwhile, Demna will unveil his final couture collection for Balenciaga, as Glenn Martens makes his debut at Maison Margiela. Industry watchers are speculating whether Pierpaolo Piccioli, Demna’s successor, will make an appearance at the show – both recently attended the opening of the Balenciaga exhibition at Kering HQ.

Paris Couture Week will conclude on a theatrical note, with three live performances at the Louvre by Jordan Roth, the Broadway producer and outspoken couture advocate. Titled Radical Acts of Unrelenting Beauty, the immersive “narrative fashion performance” will feature Roth alongside six dancers and conductor Thomas Roussel – a fitting finale for a week where fashion and art converge in spectacular harmony.