Haute times are here again !
In this special Baselworld 2012 feature, Aviamost keeps up its promise to bring readers a first hand account by Fady Boustany on the latest and most exciting novelties presented at the 40th edition of the world’s leading watch and jewellery show
This year will definitely be recorded as one of the most important one’s for Omega, which for the 25th time is the official timekeeper of the Olympics, which will be held in London this year. It also celebrates the occasion of it’s 80th anniversary at the games as well as its participation in the 1948 London Olympics with new materials. One watch in the London Olympic Games collection is based on the first Seamaster introduced in 1948. Other debuts include the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT, a new member of its exclusive family of proprietary Co-Axial movements, the De Ville Chronograph with a blue dial some interesting Seamaster models including one for the 50th anniversary of the first Omega in space. It surprises us with a stunning Spacemaster Z-33 and with its Speedmaster Racing watch. Finally, with the Seamaster Planet Ocean 45.5 mm Ceragold Chronograph, Omega presents the new luxury materialgrade 5 titanium powered with a new Caliber 5666 quartz movement that provides a full package of useful features for professional pilots.
Omega held a double celebration with a cocktail party marking the launch of the new Omega James Bond collection as well as the world’s most famous spy James Bond’s 50th birthday at the sophisticated Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois where around 500 guests attended the event who were served with the famous ‘James Bond cocktail.’ Shaken not stirred.
The mood is upbeat at Zenith whose Christophe Comlombe watch won an award at Grand Prix d’horlogerie de Geneve. The leading Swiss watchmaker focusses this year on pilot’s watches, some of them directly inspired by historical pieces. Brand CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour said Zenith has a long history of pilots watches going back to 1910 when the world’s first pilot, Leon Morane wore a Zenith watch. It was also among the first to build aviation instruments. Lastly the name ‘Pilot’ is trademarked by Zenith. It launches three timpieces in this collection: Pilot Aeronef Type 20, a 57.5mm homage to a pilot’s watch from 1912 and a C.O.S.C. Certified chronometer containing the famous 5011 pocket watch caliber that was certified the most accurate chronometer ever tested by the Neuchatel Observatory in 1967. The same caliber has been used in marine chronometers and pocket watches and now for the first time in a wristwatch; the other two collections are the Pilot Special Big Date and the Pilot Doublematic, a worldtime chronograph with alarm.
According to LVMH Watch & Jewelery Division President Francesco Trapani, the last fiscal year was excellent for all the brands in the LVMH portfolio. At the individual level, Bulgari has seen a double digit growth in all product categories and distribution channels. It ranks as the top two or three best appealing companies in the world today. He expects 2012 to be good at this stage but he remains cautious due to the volatility of the economic situation.
For 128 years, Bulgari has epitomized Italian style in the world of fine jewellery. It has also been designing and manufacturing exclusive watches since the 1920’s. Integrating previous Daniel Roth designs with Bulgari savoir-faire, it unveils the new Bulgari Papillon Voyageur, Daniel Roth collection for globe trotters in a limited edition of just 99 pieces with an original dual-time zone display and a patented minute indication system. Its new Serpenti is a direct heir to its historical legacy and is reinterpreted in a contemporary manner, with the 18k gold bracelet fashioned as per traditional goldsmith techniques and featuring a diaphanous pink gold double wrap-around structure, clothed in jet-black or eggshell-white scales set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
A mechanical triumph from reverred brand Blancpain is the world-exclusive version of the first wristwatch equipped with a traditional Chinese calendar – the 45 mm Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel, honouring the age-old culture. Besides the hours, minutes and the Gregorian calendar, the dial is home to the Chinese calendar which features traditional double-hour indication, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the zodiac, the five elements, the 10 celestial stems and the moon phases. Powered by the new self-winding Calibre 3638 it has a 7-day power reserve. The platinum version comes in 20 pieces only, engraved with a dragon to celebrate the year 2012. There is also an unlimited red gold version.
Staying true to its roots since 1839 is independent Swiss watch brand Patek Philippe. It has presented eight chronograph movements over the last seven years. A feat made possible due to its vast experience and expertise gathered in producing chronographs since 1927. It’s well known that Perpetual Calendar watches are among the most popular complications in the market today, tracking and displaying automatically the day, date and month with many also offering the phases of the moon. These type of watches will do this until the year 2100 only, as this is when the leap year which should occur, will be omitted in order to have real time and solar time coincide correctly.
According to brand President Thierry Stern, its highlight this year is the Reference 5204, the new Split Seconds Chronograph with a perpetual calendar. The other is the cushion-shaped Patek Philippe Reference 5940, Men’s Perpetual Calendar recalling it’s first perpetual calendar from 1925, housing the Patek Philippe ultra-thin self-winding caliber 240 Q. It also
presents women a new temptation by housing the same caliber 240 Q and calendar mechanism in the rose gold Ladies First Perpetual Calendar whose bezel is set with 68 flawless Wesselton diamonds.
It is about a year since the new CEO of acclaimed watch brand Ulysse Nardin Patrick Hoffman took over the brand following the sad passing away of industry legend Rolf Schnyder. This year it houses the exciting Caliber 118 in a new Marine line, a Nivarox-free escapement made entirely in-house with its own DIAMonSil hairspring and silicium technology. The limited edition piece has an enamel dial also made in-house. It also unveils a stunning perpetual calendar watch with dual time function - the limited edition Blue Toro in rose gold with striking blue bezel and pushers in blue ceramic available in 99 pieces and driven by the in-house developed and manufactured UN -32 self-winding movement.
After launching the Dior VIII Grand Bal collection last year with the “Dior inversé” calibre, Christian Dior is back with new additions. The 38mm dial watches sport high-tech black or white ceramic and white gold dials with ceramic bracelets with pyramid links. Its Grand Bal Haute Couture Model N°1 has a black Australian opal dial with 60 baguette tsavorite garnets on the bezel. While the Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture Model N°2 has a black Atrina mother-of-pearl dial set with 227 pink sapphires, and a bezel set with 60 Madagascar amethysts. Its Dior VIII Grand Bal Haute Couture Model N°5 has a white jade dial with diamonds and emeralds and bezel set with 60 baguette sapphires from Nigeria.
Acclaimed fashion and luxury brand Versace launches a new version of the DV One Cruise in six different versions, with bold colours and a pop mood. A high-tech XL ceramic case, precise quartz movement, an enamelled dial and a leather strap offered in six styles: three precious models, in which the bezel is studded with coloured gems and three sporty styles in which the bezel features a tachymeter scale. Its new line of stunning Versace Mystique watches feature six different models, including the exceptional version with a bezel set with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds. The 38mm stainless steel cases boast gorgeous dials featuring hibiscus flowers.
Tag-Heuer’s Hollywood link
Hollywood star Cameron Diaz is the new brand ambassador for Tag Heuer. She was presented a beautiful feminine Link Lady collection, highlighted with a stunning Diamond Star timepiece. This technological masterpiece houses a self-winding movement that appears as if it is floating in the center of the case, while an oscillating mass with the wonderful star design makes 360° turns crafted in 18 k 5N rose gold and set with 192 diamonds. Its new Formula 1 Lady Yin Yang scintillates with 234 baguette diamonds and 245 brilliant diamonds in a 32mm white gold case.
Tourbillons, Dragons and Diamond dimensions!
Co-President Caroline Scheufelle of the well known jewellery and watch brand Chopard said that handcraftsmanship is still the top priority for 2012 and it also wants to introduce the people who helped create the beautiful collections. Chopard recently registered as a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). Its dazzling new L’Heure du Diamant features oval diamonds for the first time. It also presents the lavish Imperiale Tourbillon Full Set, with the masterpiece L.U.C 02-14-L hand-winding movement bearing the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, entirely designed, developed and crafted manually. It features a one-minute tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position adorned with diamonds in the snow setting technique on the dial.
Its L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon features a Chinese dragon motif on the back of the internally manufactured movement. Its exemplary Chopard L.U.C Lunar One 43mm watch houses a L.U.C. 96.13-L caliber with a perpetual calendar and orbital moon-phase display. The other is a new collection called Classic, the first watch in the new line is the Classic Manufactum, inspired by the pocketwatches of the Belle Epoque. Chopard also presented its third in-house developed movement to be produced by Fleurier Ebauches. The integrated chronograph caliber is based on the Chrono One movement, an in-house developed caliber to be used in the Mille Miglia collection and in classic Chopard watches. It also presents its first watch the L.U.C 8HF model in just 100 pieces, housing the new high frequency movement vibrating at 8 hertz, which is twice as fast as standard movements.
Legendary French luxury brand, Chanel has firmly established itself in the field of haute horlogerie since 25 years. To pay tribute to its history, the brand is presenting the Premiere Tourbillon Volant this year, a flying tourbillon concealed beneath a camellia, combining femininty, creativity and expertise. It is also presenting the J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse in a matt version highlighted by the J12 GMT white ceramic, whose automatic movement provides a second time zone. Regarding whether J12 will remain in the timepiece collection and be driven forward by innovation, President of Chanel Watches and Fine Jewellery Philippe Mougenot said yes, and that as an independent watch brand this offered them the privilege of being able to work with a long term view. Of the show his comment was that Baselworld is too important a show for any serious watchmaker to miss.
Robust, functional and independent are the attributes of Breitling’s watches. They also reflect the company’s successful transformation into a manufactory. It presented two new calibers, building on its first in-house manufactured movement 01 of 2009. The first is the manual wind caliber 02 with a chronograph and 24-hour display It is used in its new Navitimer Cosmonaute to mark Scott Carpenter’s space flight 50 years ago. The second is the caliber 05, an in-house manufactured universal time automatic chronograph movement for the Transocean Chronograph Unitime.
This year several brands celebrate important milestones too, such as Longines which marks 180 years. Its President Volter von Kanel said that 2011 was an excellent year for the Swiss watch industry, for the Swatch Group and for Longines. It will be launching several re-editions of heritage pieces enhancing the rich history of the brand. It has launched the beautiful Saint-Imier collection exclusively with mechanical movements, paying tribute to Saint-Imier in Switzerland where the brand was founded in 1832. It also introduced the Column-Wheel Single Push-Piece Chronograph 180th Anniversary Limited Edition.
Several leading brands have featured the dragon to mark the Chinese New Year such as legendary name Jaquet Droz. Its Petite Heure Minute Relief Dragon watch from the collection of Les Ateliers d'Art is very eye-catching. It treats The Eclipse Onyx to the moon-phase complication and a dial carved from a black onyx disc. The mesmerising colour of the stone becomes a jewel case celebrating the radiance of the rhodiumed metal forming the eight stars, and the moon.
Renowned Swiss luxury watch brand Perrelet presents new interpretations of the signature double rotor concept in a new Peripheral Double Rotor timepiece that offers contemporary style and architectural form. Its twin rotors wind the new Caliber P-341 a proprietary movement decorated with the Cotes de Geneve motif. Its bold new Turbine XL gold watch has blades carved in solid rose gold. As soon as it moves, they expose both the gold as well as the black lacquer background. It houses the self-winding P-181 Double rotor movement and is available in just 77 pieces.
For the third chapter in its Histoire de Tourbillon series, renowned American luxury brand Harry Winston ’s has gone beyond what has ever been done with a strong, powerful rectangular 3D architecture including a sophisticated triple-tourbillon inspired by the shape of train wheels. It also presented the exquisite Premier Feather Watch collection, a combination of precious stones and premier feather artistry in four different watches, all with quartz movements, cases of 18k white or rose gold set with brilliant cut diamonds; the feather dials are available as silver pheasant feathers, Lady Amherst pheasant feathers, peacock feathers, or delicate ring-necked pheasant feathers, all with satin straps.
This year, innovation and glamour are the key words which summarise Rolex’s offerings of both mechanical items and sparkling jewellery watches. The technically most proficient is the Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller - an annual calendar with two time zones both displayed at the same time, powered by a new movement developed in-house, the automatic caliber 9001. It incorportes 14 patents, 5 new ones; all of the displays can be adjusted via the crown. On the other hand its new Oyster Perpetual Datejust incorporates design and glamour, the pink gold dial has white diamonds contrasting with black lacquer with a bezel set with 180 diamonds.
Tudor the ‘younger brother’ of Rolex presents two new dive watches; the Heritage Black Bay built for vintage enthusiasts around the world and the new Tudor Pelagos watch that comes with a unique self-adjusting clasp. The change in pressure in diving has haunted many divers wearing a steel bracelet diving watch, as the contraction and expansion from the neoprene wet suit can disrupt the diver’s comfort and view of the watch. Tudor has delivered an answer to those problems with a real winner.
One of the most riveting models at the show was Hublot’s lavishly diamond-clad $ 5 Million watch. Set with 1300 diamonds it took 14 months to complete and was sold out instantly on the next day of the show itself! The leading Swiss brand introduces a material this year that is likely to benefit the industry. In partnership with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Lausanne (EPFL) it unveiled a range of alloys including Magic Gold, a fusion of 24k gold with high-tech ceramic, which was presented in a new Ferrari watch, apart from the King power GMT in black ceramic, a Slim Classic Fusion in titanium, a Boa themed Big Bang and a Perpetual Calendar.
Glashutte Original, the German luxury watchmaker based in Glashutte Saxony is renowned for mechanical masterpieces. One stand out this year is the limited edition Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon a world first and the most unusual sophisticated masterpiece in its history. As a new generation of classic graceful women’s watches, the Lady Serenade houses the Manufacture Caliber 39-22 offered in stainless steel and rose gold with three different versions in stainless steel.
This year one of the most important timepiece complications by legendary French jewellery house Boucheron is the Cypris Tourbillon with three gold bridges movement – ensconced in diamonds and gemstones. The movement acts as the body of the bird, above which is its head on the diamond bezel and around which its feathers spread around to form a shimmering bracelet. It is powered by a mechanical movement with manual wind and tourbillon and has a diamond set bezel. Its charming new Ajouree collection brings a cameleon, a frog, and luxurious flowers to life.
Swiss brand de Grisogono has 400 new unveilings this year. Its ever charismatic founder Fawaz Gruosi said that his policy was to always, to dare to be different. The major markets for the brand are still Europe; while Russia and Kazahakstan are are still of great importance and its is looking forward to China and India where it will be moving in mid-2012. His timepiece introductions are feminine and luxurious, with the highlight being the beautiful Tondo Tourbillon Gioiello clothed in diamonds. Its new exclusive mechanical movement is equipped with an offset tourbillon at 8 o’clock, reinterpreting this Grande Complication for the first time in a model dedicated to women.
Its new Tondo by Night has photo luminescent watch cases which which draw the solar energy by day and light up at night.
The father of watchmaking is definitely Abraham-Louis Breguet, inventor of the tourbillon. Today, Breguet continues in its quest for precision, having introduced in 2006 its first watches with silicon balance-spring and escapement which contributed to improving the average rate of watches. It continues to use silicon in its movements and intends to fit silicon components to all its horological works of art by 2013. Moreover 2012 is important as it marks 200 years since Queen Caroline Murat of Naples ordered the first complicated wristwatch as well as the decade since the launch of the Reine de Naples women’s collection. Its new Tradition Breguet 7047 Tourbillon Fusee features a torubillon, fusee and chain transmission, Breguet balance spring in silicon – all protected by four patents. Each is individually numbered and signed.
Porsche Design the leading luxury brand revives the legendary Chronograph I, its horological debut and its first ever all-black watch, now a much-coveted trend but a bold move 40 years ago. The reissue P'6510 Black Chronograph, based on the model which Ferdinand Alexander Porsche himself designed in 1972, adapts certain features to contemporary expectations. In it beats the legendary Valjoux 7750 chronograph calibre with calendar function. The P'6510 is everything its inventor believed in: streamlined forms dictated by function, patiently selected and authentic materials, and impeccable hand-crafting and comes in just 911 numbered pieces.
Inspired by the MasterGraff Minute Repeater launched in Basel 2011, Graff’s spectacular timepiece showcases two sophisticated horological complications housed in a fully pave diamond case. It is triggered on demand by an upward push on a dedicated repeater slide positioned on the side of the case. Two hammers striking two gongs sound the hours, quarter hours and minutes. In addition to the hand-wound movement with 80 hours power reserve, it features a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It is limited to just 10 pieces.
Luxury timepiece brand Fendi introduces a Crazy Carats Pave with full diamond-set center dial. A rolling mechanism magically changes the gemstones with a turn of its crown. It features either white diamonds, black diamonds, pink sapphires, blue sapphires or red rubies on the case, inner ring, and bezel in an exclusive Fendi design. Its sporty Selleria Chronograph features easy to change straps available in a palette of colours as well as great dial choices in steel or two-tone cases. The watch heads are sold separately from the straps and bracelets. Its new classic Fendimatica collection of automatic watches for men is inspired by 50’s and 60’s Italian films with ergonomically curved sides and horns. Its automatic mechanical movement is has an oscillating self winding weight beating at 28,800 vph.
Dating to 1888 when Carl F. Bucherer opened his watch retail business in Lucerne, Switzerland, the independent watch brand has blazed its own trial. Among the many models launched this year is its Patravi DayDate, which shows the current day of the week and has a big date display. Its new Manero ChronoPerpetual available in a limited edition of 100 pieces has a perpetual calendar with correction-free indication of the date, day of the week, month and moon phase, a technical challenge that can be met only by a few watchmakers. For ladies it presents the elegant Alacria TwoTone blending stainless steel with rose gold, with a version embellished with radiating diamonds.
Acclaimed Swiss brand HYSEK’s new Verdict Tourbillon is featured at the 10 o’clock position. The other rhodium-plated, hand-applied Arabic numerals 1, 5 and 7 which are signature design codes remain on the dial. With an open display case back, the brand’s in-house Manufacture flying tourbillon’s beauty can be seen. The in-house automatic movement, features an oscillating weight in 22-Karat gold and rhodium-plated. Hysek also tempts us with its new Verdict watches for women, available in either automatic or quartz versions, the key focus is on the dials where a common feature is the use of seven diamonds that add an attractive sparkle. Both the mechanical and quartz versions are housed in HYSEK’s signature watchcases.
Korloff intends to focus on the concept of marriage in 2012. It has opened a boutique dedicated to weddings in the Middle East offering specific collections to high class clients. Accompanying this strategy it launches the new Voyageur inspired by the model of its watch offering solitaire rings, wedding rings, pendants and earrings. It comes in 18k white gold set with Korloff-cut diamonds or round diamonds. It also presents the new flagship model in the same collection, a 42mm Retrograde Chronograph in 316L steel with a silver or black guilloche dial. Two versions are available, one without diamonds and one set with 56 diamonds.
According to DeWitt, the only rational side to luxury is quality as the rest is an entirely emotional decision that goes beyond all other considerations. Each DeWitt timepiece is assembled by a single master watchmaker. It is now one of the very few remaining watch-makers to perpetuate the art of guilloché on historical 18th, 19th and 20th century rose-engine machines. The Swiss watch maker marks 15 years since its founding. It presents its new N°3 concept watch and refreshes its Twenty-8-Eight and Academia lines. It has used Neotitanium for the case of the Twenty-8-Eight Automatic with a guilloché dial, and for the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon, launched in 2010 and equipped with the brand's first in-house tourbillon movement (DW8028.)
Famed watch brand Philip Stein presented another stunning world first: the Philip Stein Round Prestige Limited Edition Kudoke – an exclusive collection of skeleton watches equipped with Philip Stein’s own Natural Frequency Technology (NFT). Watch-lovers will be enthralled by the unique timepieces hand-made by Stefan Kudoke that combine watch-making skills of beauty with an overall sense of well-being.
French brand Hermes celebrates 175 years in the business and 100 years in watchmaking and combines its visionary expertise and heritage in an all new movement H1837 released in a great new line. An automatic calibre, the H1837 is a beautiful 193 part movement featuring an oscillating weight. Beating at 28,800 vph it offers 50 hours of power reserve and features double barrels. It is housed in its iconic new Dressage with tonneau shaped case offered in a Simple Calendar version or a Small Second model both offered in a choice of dial colours and available in stainless steel or rose gold.
Concord’s C2 Chronograph Black and White duo explores the force of duality in the universe. The black piece called the Black Frost is set with black diamonds suggesting power, while the white is set with white diamonds to symbolise purity and feature an automatic chronograph movement. 25 years after its introduction, the new Saratoga line comes in a new incarnation that has maintained a particularly strong following in the Middle East where horse-racing is a passion. It features an eight-sided bezel, woven-link bracelet, and sophisticated dial patterns. It includes gents’ and ladies’ diamond-set and non-set models. Two special 25th Anniversary editions featuring distinctive mosaic dial motifs will be offered, presented in a special boxed set featuring a pair of Saratoga cufflinks and a luxury pen.
The vision of creating the world’s thinnest high-tech ceramic watch, incorporating a 1 millimetre thin movement, was turned into reality byRado through the development of totally new manufacturing processes with its new True Thinline collection. High-tech ceramic fulfils the apparently opposing roles of offering a delicate appearance and a hardness of 1250 Vickers. There are 20 different models, including variations in size, colour and finish, plus a choice of high-tech ceramic or hypoallergenic rubber for the bracelet material.
Heir to the noble British watchmaking traditions, the Arnold & Son TB88 True Beat is entirely in line with the prestigious creations by the famous 18th century English horologist John Arnold. It is distinguished by its Manufacture-made true beat seconds movement which is inverted to reveal through the front, the beauty of its symmetrical “double 8” architecture. It also marks time in jerking motion as a tribute to the first chronometer, n° 36, now displayed at the National Maritime Museum in London.
‘Real watches for real people’ promises Oris and in its new launches include the Oris Tubbataha limited edition fitted with Oris’ own regulator movement, the Big Crown line, the Atelier series and the Aquis Divers lineup, as well as its new Artix GT series, a new family inspired by its long term committment to motor sports.
A unique take on luxury
With Vertu and luxury, it is all about intrinsic value. CEO Perry Oosting spoke about the company’s first touchscreen smartphone saying that it is as functional as it was beautiful and unique. This year it had a special collaboration with Ferrari resulting in the Constellation Quest Ferrari. It combines the Vertu principles of pioneering design, modern technology and luxury services with specially created Ferrari content and and unique Ferrari experiences. The handset design takes inspiration from the Ferrari 458 Italia, with the Ferrari logo embossed in the leather on the front of the handset.
Paulo Coelho’s famous book, The Alchemist has now sold more than 65 million copies. Translated into more than 70 languages it earned the Guinness World Record for the “Most Translated Book By A Living Author.” To embody its spirit in a pen, Montegrappa has fashioned a form that encompasses the myriad symbols in the story. Using the lost wax technique of casting, it is decorated with representations of the Sun and the Moon on the cap, incorporating a rotating mechanism that gives the same tactile sensation as the winding and time-setting of a mechanical watch. It will be issued in an edition of 1987 fountain pens and roller balls in total, in honour of the year the book was published. Since 1912, the Italian brand has been manufacturing high-quality writing instruments in the same historic building in Bassano del Grappa, North East Italy.
The CEO of Carrera y Carrera, Natalie Guedj too was very optimistic too. She said, ‘For the first time in three years, we don’t hear about the financial crisis. That reflects the very good business the jewellery industry did in 2011.’ The brand enjoyed two consecutive years with growth of 20 per cent. To witness the result of Spanish passion blend with Oriental mysticism one just has to view its new Circulos de Fuego (circles of five) collection where dragon motifs feature on every piece. Its Musica collection is inspired by music, so inherent to Spanish culture, presents four splendid lines, Danza, Alegrías Melodía and Concierto.
Leading jewellery designer Marco Bicego fascinates us this year by lining his collections with diamonds. Africa has eye-catching volumes and Jaipur Link has diamonds flowering around the coloured stones. And for its Marrakech collection it is using slim gold spirals with an ultra-fine Milanese chain core which has been patented. Popular brand among celebrities like Hillary Clinton it will be opening two stores in Hong Kong this year. Its Siviglia Sapphire collection has hand-textured gold confetti beads set with brilliant sapphires.
Masriera, the legendary jeweler founded in 1839 tempts us with its tribute to nature with floral representations and other symbolist interpretations. One of its most emblematic pieces is the Spring Dance, an 18k gold necklace with four garnets, 470 brilliant diamonds, and fired enamel. Delicate and elegant floral silhouettes combine in a harmonic manner with the gold tones to present one of the most memorable jewels of the show.
Mikimoto is synonymous with pearls and Japan’s famous jeweler unfurls four stunning sets of unique creations: Italian classical music, a peacock, braids and Cinderella’s glamour has inspired them. New proposals on how to wear pearl jewellery are part of its agenda this year, which marks the 120th anniversary of Mikimoto’s invention of cultured pearls. In its anniversary year of 2013 it will present Akoya jewellery produced by the new Akoya oyster farm it has been developing over the past few years. Its President Hitoshi Yoshida said that consumer’s values have been changing over the last few years and that last year’s tragedy magnified it. This year it aims to strengthen its name as also information about cultured pearls. Baroque cultured pearls play an important role in its new collections with opals in combination.
Well known Italian jeweller Pasquale Bruni’s collections are produced in Valenza Po and sold in 300 dealerships around the world. Its opened its flagship store in Moscow’s Tsum shopping mall. Just two of the many delights not to be missed this year are its new arrivals in the Mandala and Bon Ton collections as also its new Ateler line of limited edition jewellery made by the great master goldsmiths of Valenza. Its Bon Ton rings are fashioned in rose gold with diamonds, pink quartz, amethyst and peridots.
Fope presents its fourth evolution of Flex’it this year with the Flex’it Vendome, the prestigious new version of the stretch bracelet that combines ergonomic design with the precious values of jewellery, gold and diamonds. The original round section ahs been replaced with an oval design making it even more comfortable and stylish, with some versions having diamond pave clasp. The second Twin jewellery collection in the Silverfope alloy with jade, chalcedonies or cornelians.
“Vicenza was very good,” said Luisa Rossi of Italian brand Annamaria Cammilli. “The year has started off positively and we are now starting to see the results. We expect a very good Basel. We are very positive and happy.” While the company has a worldwide presence, especially in Russia, the Middle East, Eastern Europe and the Far East. Its founder draws inspiration from the infinite forms of Nature and underlines the union between art and fashion. The exclusive and original gold colours are skillfully worked to always create different effects and complemented by original cuts of precious and semiprecious stones or pearls.
For a graduated symphony in pink, purple and lilac, de Grisogono offers its white gold earrings set with 388 diamonds, 140 pink sapphires, 53 amethysts and 12 pink sapphires. It adds to its well know Galuchat collection with playful motifs inspired by creatures of the land and the sea – such as an amethyst-set octopus, a delicate frog set with tsavorites and orange sapphires, a dolphin made of sapphires and a ladybird made of tsavorites, rubies and black diamonds. In its enticing Ivy necklace none of the settings are visible between the stones.
Butterfly motifs, symbolise rebirth and were featured by several brands notably Italian house Damiani which presents its stunning new “Butterfly” collection as part of its Masterpiece range comprising white gold butterflies with multicolor sapphires and diamonds. According to GroupVice President Giorgio Damiani, it is planning massive expansion with the opening of 100 own-brand boutiques with a second location in Moscow. It also presents the gold daily collection with appealing price tags. Among its watch launches are new versions of its Belle Epoque and Mimosa which has a a third circle of diamonds on the bezel. Apart from this are its special editions for the Chinese New Year.
Having built on immensely popular collection of charms for years, the American company Aaron Basha retailed in Dubai at Levant has chosen to unveil the incorporation of new and different materials this year, such as new leather strap bracelets in a variety of colours and and leathers that hold its signature charms with the original signature Aaron Basha link. This year it is concentrating on expanding its Evil Eye collection as well as leather clasp collections. In addition to the classics, the baby shoe being a staple of the brand forever.
Meanwhile German company Schoeffel which marked its 90th anniversary last year heads for the watery depths in search of figurative inspiration for its cute Best Friends collection; octopusses, frogs, fish and crabs infect the wearer and viewer withtheir with their good mood and delight eith their particularly spirited expressions. Fashioned from white gold and rose gold, rock crystal and mother-of-pearl in cheeky shades of orange, green, turquoise and subtle silvery grey.
Reviving the myth and magic of an ancient civilization is Spanish brand Magerit Joyas with its sparkling Atlantis collection where the elements of the water and the air as well as the bodies of the sirens are brought together to create pieces from which emanate a fragile and unique beauty. The Atlantis collection consists of earrings, necklaces, and rings.
Acclaimed Venetian jeweller Roberto Coin celebrates the Year of the Dragon with a limited edition Dragon collection. Launched in the beginning of the year, it was sold out even before Baselworld said Roberto Coin. It unveiled interesting rings in its new limited edition Bull collection combining rose gold and white gold with colourless and black diamonds and the Eagle collection in yellow and white gold with black and brown diamonds and yellow sapphires. Its stylish new Primavera multibracelets in rose gold feature amethysts.
With its exclusive jewellery, the manufacture Victor Mayer has been representing ideals beyond fashion trends since 1890. Timeless values, masterful forms and the best possible materials, as also unique craftsmanship. In its romantic Serenade collection hand-engraved petals featuring fired enamel are accentuated by the finest brilliant cut diamonds while a rose-coloured tourmaline blends in with the surrounding opalescent white.
All the brands under Leading Italian Jewels, namely Stefan Hafner, Nouvelle Bague, Valente, Porrati and Io Si, owned now by Indian group Gitanjali have new items and are relaunching their own icons. Nouvelle Bague revisits its famous bracelets, Hafner unveils unbelievably fabric-like light and soft jewels, Porrati emphasises sassy allure while for Io Si it’s all about fashion. The brand has opened the first two-brand boutique in the Chinese city of Dalian and is set to open a boutique in Dubai and is targetting expansion in China, Russia, India and other parts of the world.
Bogh-Art represents a singular vision of fine jewelry, with over 100 years of experience and four generations with a singular love of stones, natural pearls and precious stones, white and coloured diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires, placing them in the most perfect setting, which is the essence behind every Bogh-Art creation. The exceptional manufacturer based out of Geneva, offers artistic authenticity of its items.