Russian Leather by Memo

Memo is venturing into the northern realms where humans are scarce, and their scent a faint whiff. This new retreat is an exposed and lofty space, where everything is intensely Russian.

Russian Leather is the latest addition to the Cuirs Nomades collection, an alluring essence with its own distinctive character.

The leather’s animal instincts lie hidden beneath the surface. The wolf of Russia or Siberia, with its heightened sense of smell – stronger and more powerful than that of man, guards this vast territory and Russian Leather’s mesmerizing precious bottle. These wolves are the perfumer’s accomplice, and along with reindeer, bear and muskox, are some of the only creatures capable of thriving in this kingdom of bleak steppes, endless forests and icy plains. They reign as secret masters over these unforgiving lands. How does one envisage «Russian leather»? Let your imagination run free with these majestic beasts. Strike a balance between force and finesse, and you will unleash a leather harmony imbued with a magical aura.

Footprints on the snowy ground reveal the invisible dance of wild animals, often the only signs of a life that hovers and awaits the perfect moment. The arrival of spring like an absolute rebirth, in which each bud burst is a conquest, each colour a radiant vision, each odour a world pure and whole. This vibrant force, this exacerbation of elements, is what Memo brings alive within Russian Leather. A sensorial flash, olfactory amplitude its sole quest, Russian Leather summons a unique emotion with Slavic nuances. Indigenous to environments untouched by human intervention, and, for that reason, truly captivating.

The boldness of plant life emerges in full glory. The stubborn fern challenging the tundra inspires a fougère accord that takes pride of place in the fragrance. The scents of aromatic flora explode with the coming sun, bursting with notes of rosemary, mint, lavender, sage and basil. The taiga and its towering conifers call forth reminiscences of Siberian pine, cypress and cedar. The composition of Russian Leather is rich with these evocations of Russia and the Far East.

The burning cold, the invisible predator, the blinding snow, the immensity of it all, your only guide, nature exalted, and now, a fougère leather, Russian Leather unbridles a persona that expresses all the untamed characteristics of wide-open spaces. And if the wolf howls at the moon, it is because it wishes to voice its presence and draw its fellow creatures near. Fragrance is no different: its singularity is a call to meet.

CUIRS NOMADES

Collection

Cuirs Nomades endeavors to explore the places where leather blossoms. Memo is driven by the intuition that leather is fulfilled somewhere. Is it not, in essence, nomadic? The travel tool par excellence, the faithful companion of globetrotters, curious minds and adventurers off to discover the world, a leather bag their only witness. In keeping with this theme, Memo has produced its own trunk as a symbolic home for all the fragrances that are created on and by our travels. A true treasure chest for olfactory round trips.

Associate leather with a place? It’s in the bag! But before we get ahead of ourselves, it is important to know that leather is an olfactory family in its own right. A material that often verges on animality and has at times been limited to its strength. But leather can also have its share of clarity, luminosity, softness, and this diversity of leathery landscapes is what Memo is after. From the raw material to its olfactory expression, the approach is similar: leather evokes for some a second protective skin, a shell, a dominant scent, a tar flower. For others, it is the softest of skins, the most delicate fur, a show of elegance, suppleness and refinement. The palette of leathers is vast, as is its interpretation in perfumery.

We have to go back to the history of leather and perfume in order to understand the ties that bind them. In the 17th century, glove-making was a flourishing trade, and to mask the odor of animal skin, the gloves were scented according to customers’ wishes: sweet almond, orange blossom, ambergris, rosemary, civet, and the list goes on. The title “Master Glove-maker Perfumer” was born, and their expertise was highly appreciated in the king’s court. In France, the city of Grasse was renowned for its tanneries and developed its fragrance expertise by cultivating fields of flowers to scent them. But in the 18th century, the cost of leather and the emerging competition brought about major changes: as the leather trade was on decline, Grasse became the capital of perfume.

Leather gave rise to perfumery. What was once a shadowy relationship is now accomplished. What we once sought to mask is now being developed and enhanced. Leather inspires, asserts itself and promotes the development of flamboyant accords. The leather note is increasingly sought after, and is obtained through the combination of raw materials such as storax, cistus labdanum, birch essential oil, agar essential oil and cassie flower, or synthetic materials like suderal and IBQ (Isobutyl Quinoline), among others.

For Cuirs Nomades, Memo has created its first leather opus with Irish Leather. An act of creation tied to the country of Ireland, where horseback riding is enjoyed in unspoiled nature. An accord that ties the grace of the horse to lush vegetation. A green leather, a gallop through the grasses. Other leather impressions will follow: a floral leather, a gourmand leather, always visited in their sphere of choice. Strong visions. Beautiful places for an encounter.